Friday, February 20, 2015
A nice visual guide to right and wrong
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Therapeutic Training and Riding
The Therapeutic Approach takes not only the horse's physical well-being into consideration, but also focuses on each horse's emotional state. It always aims to improve happiness, confidence, and pride in our equine partners while building strong and powerful bodies.
In the physically therapeutic approach to riding, I use physical exercises as a form of therapy to improve the way the horse feels throughout his whole body and therefore his mind. I strive to loosen tension in the body and teach the horse to engage his body properly, to use and relax muscles properly, therefore building a strong, supple foundation that supports joints and bones for the hard work to come.
I work to free up physical blocks and limitations, and to help the horse perform at it's highest ability. The ultimate goal is to create a body that is strong enough to last through many years of riding with the least amount of wear and tear possible, rather than enjoying a short burst of success before breaking down.
In the mentally and emotionally therapeutic approach to riding, I always strive to break through the blocks and defenses the horse has erected, to get his mind to relax, to enjoy the work and to gain his trust. I want the horse to look at work as a fun and rewarding experience. A chance to feel proud and yes - feel like he is better and more special than any other horse in the barn - even if he moves like a donkey. As long as they all feel equally important, you have a barn full of happy horses.
Nothing is more rewarding than a horse who lets you know he's a little annoyed with you because - Lord forbid - you decided to give him a day off. That is when you know that training and work has become rewarding to them. That it is something they truly look forward to.
The therapeutic approach serves as a compassionate method to success that aims to keep horses as happy as possible and never sacrifices the horses well-being to achieve results. It can also have "rehabilitating" effects, building strong bodies while soothing the mind. It aims to build not just partnerships, but friendships with the horse, and to forge a strong emotional bond between horse and rider.
The meaning of "Round"
"Round" actually has nothing to do with the horse's head set. Round simply means that the horse is stepping under itself, carrying it's weight on the hind end, lifting and engaging the stomach and back muscles ("rounding" the back), and allowing it's front end to move freely.
In short: It is all about posture - engagement of the hind end, stomach, and back muscles! The actual neck set has absolutely nothing to do with it.
Just because the horse keeps his head up and rounded doesn't mean it is actually round. Too many times, this head set was forced too early, causing the horse to "break" in the neck while still arching it's back and keeping his hind end blocked and straight. It is a very uncomfortable position for the horse which usually causes loss of motion in the muscles through the body and results in a shortened stride behind.
The high, rounded neck frame should be a result of collection, happening naturally as the hind end drops lower and lower, carrying more and more weight. The back and stomach muscles engage strongly, further supporting the frame (the equivalent of a human doing crunches. While you might look shorter overall when doing a crunch, your back muscles are actually stretching). It actually requires a good amount of stretching over the topline in general and a lot of strength in the muscles to support such a frame. Overall, the position is pretty much the equivalent of us squatting, engaging and sucking in our stomach muscles, rounding and lifting our backs, our shoulders and our necks. Once you try that a few times with your own body, you will gain a whole new understanding of "collection" and the sheer strength needed to support it.
When forced too early (the "crank them in" method), before the muscles are able to stretch adequately and are strong enough to support such a position for any length of time, the horse arches his back to avoid damaging and overworking the muscles of the topline. By breaking at the neck and arching the back, the horse allows the topline muscles to stay short while still giving the rider what he wants - a short, high, round neck. This, in turn, has detrimental effects on joints and bones.Not to mention control and rideability.
A horse can be round in any frame. In the long and low position (See the long and low post), the horse pushes forward strongly from behind while reaching forward and down toward the bit, stretching out all the muscle groups of the whole topline. The back is round and stomach muscles are engaged, allowing the shoulders and front end optimal freedom. Without engagement of the hind end, stomach and back muscles, the horse is simple dragging itself around on the front end.
In the medium frame (I like to call it the "working" frame), before collection is introduced, we slowly ask the hind end to engage further, dropping a little lower and carrying more weight, asking the stomach and back muscles to engage harder, in turn lifting the head a little higher and shortening the neck in order to stay balanced. The lifting of the neck should come as a RESULT of the hind end stepping under and carrying more weight and the stronger engagement of stomach and back muscles. It can therefore never be achieved by simple pulling up the neck and head. Once again, if you tuck in your own butt and engage your stomach and back muscles further, you will "lift" your neck as a result automatically.
In a collected frame, we simple engage hind end, stomach, and back muscles even further - the equivalent of a brutal crunch while squatting in a human. At this point, we should be able to also ask the neck muscles to engage a little more, aiding the shorter, higher neck position without loosing the suppleness or movement throughout the neck. It is a physically highly demanding "posture" to maintain and requires adequate stretching of the muscles before and after the workout to prevent them from shortening even if they are loose.
In turn, a horse can also be round with the nose up in the air. A jumper, for example, has to lift his head in order to see the jump. Ideally, he will drop his hind end, reaching forward in his strides while maintaining a round back and engaged stomach muscles when approaching the jump or taking tight turns. His front end will remain free and light, the muscles throughout his whole body (including the neck) continuing to engage and relax. If engagement of the hind end and back is lost as his head comes up, he will once again be heavy on the forehand, arched in the back, with the hind end sticking up behind him, and no longer round. If, however, the whole body is still properly engaged, the horse will still be "round", despite the high, straight neck set.
If only the neck and head of the horse are cranked in, the rest of the body is as flexible as a board. When you ask those horses to "collect", the hind end is unable to drop, the back unable to round up and the only thing you can achieve is a shortening of the stride (the board cannot flex or engage).
If, however, you properly prepare the horse, it becomes as flexible and strong as a fresh, still green twig. You can bring the front and back together because the middle can round up, resulting in a "shortening" of the overall look. The hind end, in this case, is able to step deeply under the body, achieving true collection while utilizing maximum range and freedom of movement.
In short: It is all about posture - engagement of the hind end, stomach, and back muscles! The actual neck set has absolutely nothing to do with it.
Just because the horse keeps his head up and rounded doesn't mean it is actually round. Too many times, this head set was forced too early, causing the horse to "break" in the neck while still arching it's back and keeping his hind end blocked and straight. It is a very uncomfortable position for the horse which usually causes loss of motion in the muscles through the body and results in a shortened stride behind.
The high, rounded neck frame should be a result of collection, happening naturally as the hind end drops lower and lower, carrying more and more weight. The back and stomach muscles engage strongly, further supporting the frame (the equivalent of a human doing crunches. While you might look shorter overall when doing a crunch, your back muscles are actually stretching). It actually requires a good amount of stretching over the topline in general and a lot of strength in the muscles to support such a frame. Overall, the position is pretty much the equivalent of us squatting, engaging and sucking in our stomach muscles, rounding and lifting our backs, our shoulders and our necks. Once you try that a few times with your own body, you will gain a whole new understanding of "collection" and the sheer strength needed to support it.
When forced too early (the "crank them in" method), before the muscles are able to stretch adequately and are strong enough to support such a position for any length of time, the horse arches his back to avoid damaging and overworking the muscles of the topline. By breaking at the neck and arching the back, the horse allows the topline muscles to stay short while still giving the rider what he wants - a short, high, round neck. This, in turn, has detrimental effects on joints and bones.Not to mention control and rideability.
A horse can be round in any frame. In the long and low position (See the long and low post), the horse pushes forward strongly from behind while reaching forward and down toward the bit, stretching out all the muscle groups of the whole topline. The back is round and stomach muscles are engaged, allowing the shoulders and front end optimal freedom. Without engagement of the hind end, stomach and back muscles, the horse is simple dragging itself around on the front end.
In the medium frame (I like to call it the "working" frame), before collection is introduced, we slowly ask the hind end to engage further, dropping a little lower and carrying more weight, asking the stomach and back muscles to engage harder, in turn lifting the head a little higher and shortening the neck in order to stay balanced. The lifting of the neck should come as a RESULT of the hind end stepping under and carrying more weight and the stronger engagement of stomach and back muscles. It can therefore never be achieved by simple pulling up the neck and head. Once again, if you tuck in your own butt and engage your stomach and back muscles further, you will "lift" your neck as a result automatically.
In a collected frame, we simple engage hind end, stomach, and back muscles even further - the equivalent of a brutal crunch while squatting in a human. At this point, we should be able to also ask the neck muscles to engage a little more, aiding the shorter, higher neck position without loosing the suppleness or movement throughout the neck. It is a physically highly demanding "posture" to maintain and requires adequate stretching of the muscles before and after the workout to prevent them from shortening even if they are loose.
In turn, a horse can also be round with the nose up in the air. A jumper, for example, has to lift his head in order to see the jump. Ideally, he will drop his hind end, reaching forward in his strides while maintaining a round back and engaged stomach muscles when approaching the jump or taking tight turns. His front end will remain free and light, the muscles throughout his whole body (including the neck) continuing to engage and relax. If engagement of the hind end and back is lost as his head comes up, he will once again be heavy on the forehand, arched in the back, with the hind end sticking up behind him, and no longer round. If, however, the whole body is still properly engaged, the horse will still be "round", despite the high, straight neck set.
If only the neck and head of the horse are cranked in, the rest of the body is as flexible as a board. When you ask those horses to "collect", the hind end is unable to drop, the back unable to round up and the only thing you can achieve is a shortening of the stride (the board cannot flex or engage).
If, however, you properly prepare the horse, it becomes as flexible and strong as a fresh, still green twig. You can bring the front and back together because the middle can round up, resulting in a "shortening" of the overall look. The hind end, in this case, is able to step deeply under the body, achieving true collection while utilizing maximum range and freedom of movement.
Training Horses with Appreciation and Kindness
I have the pleasure to see appreciation and kindness every day at the barn, when the ladies come out to spend time with their horses. While riding is usually a part of that time, just as often they simply come because they enjoy hanging out with their equine friends. These wonderful women prove every day that love and compassion for the horse itself (not just the sport of riding) is vitally important to a lot of owners.
Even as a trainer, for me, the emotional connection and bond with the horse remains the most rewarding part of the sport. In order to establish such a bond, however, we need to approach the horse with appreciation and kindness at all times.
While we certainly have to ensure that the horse is respectful of us, we can never forget to show them the same respect in turn. In addition, we need to learn to never take anything for granted, to remember that we can do whatever we do to them simply because they allow us to.
Submission definitely plays a big role in the relationship between horse and human. And many people simply regard horses as a "lesser intelligent" being which is basically dumb enough to let us humans manipulate it. But when it comes down to it - They are stronger than us, easily capable of hurting, if not killing us. And as such reserve the utmost respect for also having been graced with the patience to deal with us.
Take something as simple as picking up a hoof, for example. While I certainly expect the horse to do so, I also always give him a quick pat or scratch as soon as I'm done - just a quick sign of appreciation that he allowed me to do so.
Unacceptable behavior needs to be corrected. But appropriate behavior also needs to be rewarded to ensure that the horse actually enjoys interaction with humans, rather than just tolerating and submitting to it. In the end, you will have a much safer relationship with your equine partner.
The same applies when training horses. Rewarding and appreciating good behavior and the effort that the horse puts in every day will go a long way in building deep, lasting relationships.We have the unique ability to form an emotional bond with an animal in this sport. To have them become our partners, not just a means to an end. So why not utilize this to the highest extend?
It never hurts to be a little humbled by the fact that such a magnificent creature has chosen to put his fate in our hands. And that (most of them, anyway) chose every day to try and please us to the best of their abilities.
There are so many ways in which to show appreciation and kindness to the horses we work with every day, even as trainers.No matter how serious we are about our training programs, we should always remember to let each horse know that is is special and important. Especially, if it is having a bad day.
It begins with a simple greeting. Whenever I first see the horse (whether in the barn or in the ring), I take a moment to simply greet him. Rub his forehead, pat his neck and simply take a few seconds to say "hello". During this time, I also try to sense how he is feeling today. This simple gesture lets the horse know that you actually care about him.
The moment I am on the horse, as soon as I am seated and have my stirrups, I give the horse a big pat and scratch. A simple "thank-you" for the fact that he is letting me do this. (And I silently hope that if the horse ever has a really bad day, he remembers the fact that I appreciate him letting me get on him every day and decides to not dismount me).
This also sets the tone for the whole session. Most horses love to please. And the more we let them know that they are pleasing us (even with things we take for granted every day), the more eager they will be to earn even more of those rewards. Ideally, horses should look at the training session as something fun and enjoyable, a chance to earn rewards, to feel pride and accomplishment.
Rewarding the horse should continue throughout the training session in order to encourage the horse to offer you a little more every day. A quick pat on the neck, a quick "good" muttered every time the horse does something right can go a long way. I don't think I ever make it around the ring a whole time without doing either one or the other.
Particularly when working on a trouble area does it become extra necessary to reward the horse for its effort. Whether that be something as little as bending and stretching a tight area a little further, or schooling a more complicated move. Even the slightest sign of cooperation toward the desired result should be rewarded. Never wait for perfection to give such a reward!
Once again, keep in mind that the horse could just as easily buck you off than submit to what you are asking of him. By showing the horse that you understand that this particular move is hard for him, you encourage him to try anyway, rather than simply demanding it. Forcing the horse and breaking through resistance can certainly work for some horses. But, most of the time, it eventually leads to unwilling or even dangerous behavior under saddle. Something that could easily be prevented with a little encouragement.
You always want to maintain that "want to please" attitude in a horse. By patting them or telling them "good" every time they make an effort (no matter how much better the end result should be), you are ensuring that you will continue to have a willing partner. You will also ensure that the horse will begin to be willing to work past it's own physical limitations. After all, rewards are so much fun.
Once the session is over and I get off the horse, I once again give them a big scratch and pat to thank them for their work. Just another quick moment to let them know that I care about them and appreciate them. Not to mention that I appreciate the fact that I reached the ground voluntarily, with no extra help on their part. I also make sure to instantly loosen the girth to make the horse more comfortable, even if I got off the horse right in front of the barn. The girth gets loosened the moment I am off his back.
Particularly whenever a horse didn't have a good day it is important to still reward them for the effort. To let them know that it is ok if they're not always feeling 100% as long as they still try. Whenever I do feel like something doesn't feel right with the horse, I only do a very short, light session, if anything at all. A willing equine partner will never "fake" not feeling well, and will try even if he is sick or hurting. It is vitally important to get a feel for the horse under you, to never push him when something isn't right.
In the barn, you can show kindness and appreciation in lots of ways also.
The first is to learn your horse's personality trades and to work with them. Some like to be pampered, others loved, some want to be all business and serious about things. The more each individual horse is allowed to display it's personality, the happier it will be.
Here too, simple pats, scratches and "goods" will go a long way in everything we do. When the saddle gets put on, whenever he reaches for the bit as you're putting on the bridle, every time the girth goes up another hole, .... Never take anything for granted. Here, already, we can instill a little sense of pride in a horse by thanking them for the simple little every-day stuff. (And please DO take your time tightening the girth!)
When you make an effort to let your horse know that you appreciate everything he lets you do, you will build a much stronger relationship with him.
And - who knows - there might come a day when you are faced with a situation in which the horse will remember your appreciation and kindness, and chose to watch out for your well-being, rather than simply preserving his own.
Even as a trainer, for me, the emotional connection and bond with the horse remains the most rewarding part of the sport. In order to establish such a bond, however, we need to approach the horse with appreciation and kindness at all times.
While we certainly have to ensure that the horse is respectful of us, we can never forget to show them the same respect in turn. In addition, we need to learn to never take anything for granted, to remember that we can do whatever we do to them simply because they allow us to.
Submission definitely plays a big role in the relationship between horse and human. And many people simply regard horses as a "lesser intelligent" being which is basically dumb enough to let us humans manipulate it. But when it comes down to it - They are stronger than us, easily capable of hurting, if not killing us. And as such reserve the utmost respect for also having been graced with the patience to deal with us.
Take something as simple as picking up a hoof, for example. While I certainly expect the horse to do so, I also always give him a quick pat or scratch as soon as I'm done - just a quick sign of appreciation that he allowed me to do so.
Unacceptable behavior needs to be corrected. But appropriate behavior also needs to be rewarded to ensure that the horse actually enjoys interaction with humans, rather than just tolerating and submitting to it. In the end, you will have a much safer relationship with your equine partner.
The same applies when training horses. Rewarding and appreciating good behavior and the effort that the horse puts in every day will go a long way in building deep, lasting relationships.We have the unique ability to form an emotional bond with an animal in this sport. To have them become our partners, not just a means to an end. So why not utilize this to the highest extend?
It never hurts to be a little humbled by the fact that such a magnificent creature has chosen to put his fate in our hands. And that (most of them, anyway) chose every day to try and please us to the best of their abilities.
There are so many ways in which to show appreciation and kindness to the horses we work with every day, even as trainers.No matter how serious we are about our training programs, we should always remember to let each horse know that is is special and important. Especially, if it is having a bad day.
It begins with a simple greeting. Whenever I first see the horse (whether in the barn or in the ring), I take a moment to simply greet him. Rub his forehead, pat his neck and simply take a few seconds to say "hello". During this time, I also try to sense how he is feeling today. This simple gesture lets the horse know that you actually care about him.
The moment I am on the horse, as soon as I am seated and have my stirrups, I give the horse a big pat and scratch. A simple "thank-you" for the fact that he is letting me do this. (And I silently hope that if the horse ever has a really bad day, he remembers the fact that I appreciate him letting me get on him every day and decides to not dismount me).
This also sets the tone for the whole session. Most horses love to please. And the more we let them know that they are pleasing us (even with things we take for granted every day), the more eager they will be to earn even more of those rewards. Ideally, horses should look at the training session as something fun and enjoyable, a chance to earn rewards, to feel pride and accomplishment.
Rewarding the horse should continue throughout the training session in order to encourage the horse to offer you a little more every day. A quick pat on the neck, a quick "good" muttered every time the horse does something right can go a long way. I don't think I ever make it around the ring a whole time without doing either one or the other.
Particularly when working on a trouble area does it become extra necessary to reward the horse for its effort. Whether that be something as little as bending and stretching a tight area a little further, or schooling a more complicated move. Even the slightest sign of cooperation toward the desired result should be rewarded. Never wait for perfection to give such a reward!
Once again, keep in mind that the horse could just as easily buck you off than submit to what you are asking of him. By showing the horse that you understand that this particular move is hard for him, you encourage him to try anyway, rather than simply demanding it. Forcing the horse and breaking through resistance can certainly work for some horses. But, most of the time, it eventually leads to unwilling or even dangerous behavior under saddle. Something that could easily be prevented with a little encouragement.
You always want to maintain that "want to please" attitude in a horse. By patting them or telling them "good" every time they make an effort (no matter how much better the end result should be), you are ensuring that you will continue to have a willing partner. You will also ensure that the horse will begin to be willing to work past it's own physical limitations. After all, rewards are so much fun.
Once the session is over and I get off the horse, I once again give them a big scratch and pat to thank them for their work. Just another quick moment to let them know that I care about them and appreciate them. Not to mention that I appreciate the fact that I reached the ground voluntarily, with no extra help on their part. I also make sure to instantly loosen the girth to make the horse more comfortable, even if I got off the horse right in front of the barn. The girth gets loosened the moment I am off his back.
Particularly whenever a horse didn't have a good day it is important to still reward them for the effort. To let them know that it is ok if they're not always feeling 100% as long as they still try. Whenever I do feel like something doesn't feel right with the horse, I only do a very short, light session, if anything at all. A willing equine partner will never "fake" not feeling well, and will try even if he is sick or hurting. It is vitally important to get a feel for the horse under you, to never push him when something isn't right.
In the barn, you can show kindness and appreciation in lots of ways also.
The first is to learn your horse's personality trades and to work with them. Some like to be pampered, others loved, some want to be all business and serious about things. The more each individual horse is allowed to display it's personality, the happier it will be.
Here too, simple pats, scratches and "goods" will go a long way in everything we do. When the saddle gets put on, whenever he reaches for the bit as you're putting on the bridle, every time the girth goes up another hole, .... Never take anything for granted. Here, already, we can instill a little sense of pride in a horse by thanking them for the simple little every-day stuff. (And please DO take your time tightening the girth!)
When you make an effort to let your horse know that you appreciate everything he lets you do, you will build a much stronger relationship with him.
And - who knows - there might come a day when you are faced with a situation in which the horse will remember your appreciation and kindness, and chose to watch out for your well-being, rather than simply preserving his own.
Evaluating the horse on the lunge line
You can learn to evaluate your horse on the line by simply trotting him without anything on its back. You can use a halter or bridle, depending on what works better for your horse, but do not use any side-reins or other aids at first.
The first thing you want to look for is the motion of muscle. On a loose horse, you will see each muscle group working with every step, engaging and relaxing in an obvious manner from the top of the neck all the way to the tail. Wherever the muscle does not engage AND loosen, there is tension. The same applies to muscles which look like they are "jarring" with engagement.
The next thing to look for is bend. Wherever you have tightness or shortness over the topline of one side, the horse will bend in that direction. (Tight over the right equals hind end bend to the right without being able to straighten and vice versa. This also applies under saddle).
The next thing to look for is engagement of each individual leg - front legs and back. You want to look not only for reach, but also for height of the lift of each leg. If one front leg lifts higher than the other, you have tightness or shortness of the shoulder muscles in that leg, for example.
The way the horse carries itself while moving freely will also tell you a lot. While it is natural for a horse to choose a higher neck set and carry more weight on the forehand, and overly "inverted" position hints toward extreme shortening over the topline. A frame which is too low without extra lifting of the back hints toward other, serious problems (the topline is too loose without engagement of muscle). If the horse keeps it's neck curled in, rather than stretching the nose forward, you also have a sign of tension and tightness.
If the horse looks loose when trotting freely, you can use the same evaluation while using side-reins. I prefer doing this in a surcingle instead of a saddle, so I can see the large back muscles at work. Once again, do a complete evaluation to see which muscle groups might show tightness, shortness or "jarring" when the horse moves. Watch for lift and reach of legs, and changes in the way the horse bends its body.
Keeping a close eye on foot fall, break-over points, and leaning (front or hind end), can tell you a lot about possible shoeing issues and can also simply let you know if there is something your farrier could do to help your horse.
Oftentimes, a horse moving freely on the lunge line will tell you a lot about possible trouble areas. It is a vital tool in evaluating your horse long before you ever put him under saddle. Once you develop a good eye for how your horse moves without a rider, you will have a much better idea of how to help him in your training program.
The first thing you want to look for is the motion of muscle. On a loose horse, you will see each muscle group working with every step, engaging and relaxing in an obvious manner from the top of the neck all the way to the tail. Wherever the muscle does not engage AND loosen, there is tension. The same applies to muscles which look like they are "jarring" with engagement.
The next thing to look for is bend. Wherever you have tightness or shortness over the topline of one side, the horse will bend in that direction. (Tight over the right equals hind end bend to the right without being able to straighten and vice versa. This also applies under saddle).
The next thing to look for is engagement of each individual leg - front legs and back. You want to look not only for reach, but also for height of the lift of each leg. If one front leg lifts higher than the other, you have tightness or shortness of the shoulder muscles in that leg, for example.
The way the horse carries itself while moving freely will also tell you a lot. While it is natural for a horse to choose a higher neck set and carry more weight on the forehand, and overly "inverted" position hints toward extreme shortening over the topline. A frame which is too low without extra lifting of the back hints toward other, serious problems (the topline is too loose without engagement of muscle). If the horse keeps it's neck curled in, rather than stretching the nose forward, you also have a sign of tension and tightness.
If the horse looks loose when trotting freely, you can use the same evaluation while using side-reins. I prefer doing this in a surcingle instead of a saddle, so I can see the large back muscles at work. Once again, do a complete evaluation to see which muscle groups might show tightness, shortness or "jarring" when the horse moves. Watch for lift and reach of legs, and changes in the way the horse bends its body.
Keeping a close eye on foot fall, break-over points, and leaning (front or hind end), can tell you a lot about possible shoeing issues and can also simply let you know if there is something your farrier could do to help your horse.
Oftentimes, a horse moving freely on the lunge line will tell you a lot about possible trouble areas. It is a vital tool in evaluating your horse long before you ever put him under saddle. Once you develop a good eye for how your horse moves without a rider, you will have a much better idea of how to help him in your training program.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)